What is a Clutch and What Does it Do in Your Mitsubishi?

The clutch is essentially the middleman between your Eclipse’s engine and transmission. When you press down on the clutch pedal, it disengages the engine from the transmission, allowing you to smoothly shift gears. The clutch has a number of important components that can wear out over time, especially with aggressive driving. Symptoms like clutch slippage, gears grinding when shifting, and abnormal clutch pedal feel indicate your Mitsubishi’s clutch may need repair.

Clutch Failure Symptoms to Inspect in Your 2000 Eclipse

Test driving your Eclipse can help identify common signs of clutch problems:

• The clutch pedal feels spongy or abnormal when pressed
• You notice clutch chatter when engaging the pedal
• Gears grind or pop out when shifting
• The vehicle stalls when shifting into gear
• Burning smells come from the clutch area
• The clutch slips and engine revs increase without acceleration

If you notice any of these issues, it likely indicates worn parts in the clutch system needing replacement. Catching problems early can save you bigger hassles down the road.

Finding the Optimal Replacement Clutch Kit

Not all clutch kits are created equal, so it’s important to find a high-quality kit designed specifically for your make and model. The key components needing replacement typically include:

• Clutch disc – connects to the flywheel and pressure plate
• Pressure plate – applies force on the clutch disc
• Release bearing – allows smooth clutch pedal operation
• Pilot bearing – supports the transmission input shaft

Look for a kit that includes all necessary parts for a complete clutch overhaul. Also ensure any flywheel resurfacing or replacements are done at this time. A fresh start with new components will give you the best performance and longevity.

Safely Supporting Your Mitsubishi Eclipse for Clutch Access

Since the clutch resides between the engine and transmission, gaining access requires some undercar disassembly. You’ll need sturdy jack stands, a transmission jack, and basic hand tools. Always use jack stands for safety – don’t just rely on a floor jack to hold the car up!

Here are the key steps for safe Eclipse support:

1. Park the vehicle on level ground and set the parking brake
2. Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before jacking up
3. Position jack stands under the recommended lift points
4. Raise the vehicle and place it securely on the stands
5. Remove front wheels if needed for better access

With the car safely supported, you can now start clutch component removal.

Step-by-Step Removal of Old Clutch and Flywheel

Taking off the exhausted clutch involves patience and care. Follow a systematic process:

1. Detach negative battery cable
2. Drain transmission fluid into a drain pan
3. Detach starter motor wires, transmission, and shifter components
4. Unbolt pressure plate and remove old clutch disk
5. Inspect flywheel ring gear for excessive wear
6. Remove flywheel bolts and detach flywheel

With the old clutch removed, inspect the flywheel friction surface for grooves, hot spots, or cracks. Resurface or replace as needed before installing new components.

Installing the Fresh Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate

Installation is essentially the reverse of removal. Some key tips:

• Use a clutch alignment tool to center the new disk
• Lubricate the throwout bearing sleeve with lithium grease
• Torque the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross star pattern
• Reconnect all electrical connectors and lines

Take care to properly align all components and don’t overtighten bolts. Test clutch operation between each step to ensure smooth engagement as you go.

Replacing Other Key Clutch Components

While you have everything disassembled, consider replacing these other common wear items:

• Release bearing – enables smooth clutch pedal feel
• Pilot bearing – supports transmission input shaft
• Clutch fork – pushes bearing to engage clutch

Quality kits include these parts for complete clutch system renewal. Don’t cut corners now only to have premature failures down the road.

Bleeding the Hydraulic System

After installing the new clutch assembly, bleed the hydraulic system to remove any trapped air bubbles:

1. Locate the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder
2. Attach a clear bleeder hose and insert end in receptacle
3. Open bleeder valve and pump pedal to expel air
4. Close valve when fluid runs clear without bubbles
5. Repeat process until system is fully bled

Proper bleeding results in a firm, consistent clutch pedal feel with no sponginess.

Reinstalling Transmission and Connected Components

With the fresh clutch installed and bled, you can reassemble the rest of the drivetrain:

• Lower transmission into place and align mounts
• Reattach all electrical connectors and lines
• Refill transmission fluid to proper level
• Reinstall starter motor and tighten connections
• Remount exhaust and other detached components

Double check all fasteners are tightened to spec and no steps were missed. Thorough reassembly now prevents problems later.

Safety Checks and Road Testing

Before driving, do some final inspections:

• Check clutch fluid level and top off if needed
• Start engine and test clutch engagement
• Listen for odd noises during clutch operation
• Test drive nearby with smooth clutch transitions

Taking it easy those first miles allows the new components to fully mate and seat. If any issues arise, address them promptly before resuming normal driving.

With this detailed guide, you can successfully replace your 2000 Eclipse’s worn clutch. Arm yourself with the right parts, tools, and know-how for a smooth clutch overhaul. Just take your time and use care each step of the way. Before you know it, you’ll be back on the road with fresh clutch feel and engagement.

Clutch Failure Symptoms to Watch Out For

As the critical connector between engine and transmission, your Eclipse’s clutch takes quite a beating over miles of shifting and acceleration. Clutch components subjected to heat, friction, and mechanical forces eventually wear out and need replacement. Being attentive to common failure symptoms can help you identify issues before they leave you stranded.

From behind the wheel, subtle changes in clutch operation provide clues of impending problems. Here are key signs to monitor:

• The clutch pedal starts feeling spongy or vague when pressed
• A “chattering” sensation is felt through the pedal
• Gears grind or pop-out when shifting
• The vehicle stalls when shifting into gear
• Burning odors arise from the clutch area
• Slipping occurs during acceleration as rpm climbs

If you notice any of these symptoms, it likely indicates components like the clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, or pilot bearing are worn out and need replacement. Ignoring these early warning signs risks more extensive damage.

For example, if your clutch disc develops excessive run-out or cracks, shards can damage the flywheel friction surface. Or a pilot bearing failure may dump debris into the transmission. Catching problems before complete failure saves you bigger hassles down the road.

In addition to degraded pedal feel and shifting issues, some other inspection points can reveal clutch problems:

• Check for fluid leaks near the clutch slave cylinder
• Inspect the clutch fluid reservoir level and condition
• Look for oil leaks from the rear main engine seal
• Test for play or noise in the clutch pedal assembly

Slow clutch engagement, grinding shifts, and abnormal pedal feel are your key trouble indicators. When these symptoms arise, it means the clutch friction surfaces have become glazed and worn. The Springs in the pressure plate can also weaken over time, reducing clamping force.

To help avoid premature wear, don’t “ride the clutch pedal” unnecessarily during driving. Keep fluids topped off and watch for leaks. And avoid overly aggressive clutch launches during acceleration. Smooth driving habits will extend the clutch lifespan.

But clutches are wear items, so replacement is inevitable with enough miles. Being attentive to the warning signs allows you to restore proper clutch operation before problems escalate. Equipped with this knowledge, you can keep your Eclipse’s manual transmission shifting smoothly for the long haul.

Finding the Optimal Replacement Clutch Kit

When the time comes for your Mitsubishi’s clutch replacement, not just any kit will do. There are significant quality variations among brands, and the right components are critical.

Here are key factors to look for:

• OEM or OEM-equivalent friction materials
• Precision manufactured components
• Kit includes all necessary parts
• Components designed for your specific make, model, and engine
• Strong track record of performance and durability

Cutting corners with inferior clutch parts is false economy. You’ll end up doing the labor twice when cheap components fail prematurely. Investing a few extra dollars in a quality kit from a reputable supplier will pay dividends through years of reliable service.

Most kits include the essential components needing periodic replacement:

• Clutch disc
• Pressure plate
• Release bearing
• Pilot bearing
• Alignment tool
• Throwout bearing sleeve

Some kits also ship with a new flywheel or resurfacing service for the existing flywheel. This provides the clean friction surface needed for proper mating with the fresh clutch disc.

You may also need new hardware like a clutch master or slave cylinder, depending on the condition of your existing hydraulic system components. And consider a new pilot bearing and clutch fork, since these items see wear over time.

The goal is to address all worn parts during the clutch job, not just the disc and pressure plate. This comprehensive overhaul will return your Mitsubishi to like-new clutch operation and feel.

With a bit of research, you can find affordable clutch kits with OE-quality components to reliably restore your Eclipse’s shifting performance. And you’ll have the peace of mind knowing its done right, the first time.

Finding the Right Replacement Clutch Kit

When it’s time to replace your 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse’s worn out clutch, choosing the right parts is critical. Not all kits are created equal, so do your homework to get quality components designed specifically for your vehicle.

Here are key factors to look for in an optimal clutch kit:

• Friction disc and pressure plate made with OEM-grade materials to avoid premature wear
• Steel plates that won’t distort or warp over time
• Precision manufactured components built to tight tolerances
• Release and pilot bearings designed for smooth clutch engagement
• Alignment tool to center the new clutch disk perfectly
• Components engineered specifically for the Eclipse/Talon platform

Cutting corners with cheap offshore clutch parts often backfires. The bargain kits use inferior materials and lack the quality control of the major brands. You’ll end up doing the labor twice when the knockoff components fail.

By choosing a kit from a reputable manufacturer like Exedy, ACT, or Centerforce, you get OEM-equivalent or better performance with a solid warranty. The few extra dollars spent per part pays dividends in reliability.

Make sure the kit includes all the typical wear items:

• Clutch disk
• Pressure plate
• Release bearing
• Pilot bearing
• Throwout bearing sleeve
• Alignment tool
• Hardware

Many kits also offer flywheel resurfacing or replacement to renew the critical friction surface. This ensures optimal mating with the fresh clutch disk.

You may also need new hydraulic components like a master or slave cylinder if leaks are present. And consider a fresh pilot bearing and clutch fork, since these also wear over time.

The goal is to address every worn part during clutch replacement, not just the disc and pressure plate. This comprehensive overhaul restores like-new performance.

With so many rebuild options, it can seem daunting finding the right Eclipse clutch kit. But armed with the knowledge of what to look for, you can zero in on a quality kit tailored to your specific needs. Then you can tackle the installation with confidence, knowing the components will provide miles of smooth shifting ahead.

When dealing with critical drivetrain parts like clutches, the adage holds true: “You get what you pay for.” So do your homework and invest in quality. Your patience shifting through eBay listings or picking up the phone to talk with vendors will be rewarded with premium parts backed by a strong warranty. Then you can rest assured the job is done right the first time.

While shopping, keep in mind factors like your Eclipse’s power modifications and intended use. A stage 2 clutch setup differs greatly from an OEM organic replacement kit. Align the clutch to the power output for optimal drivability.

With some smart parts sourcing, you can find an affordable, heavy duty clutch kit offering smooth engagement and years of worry-free performance. Taking the extra time upfront to make the right parts choice will save you from doing premature repairs down the road.

Replacing the clutch on your 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse can be a daunting task, but with the right preparation and tools, it can be done safely in your own garage. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to support your Eclipse and replace the clutch in 10 easy-to-follow steps.

How to Safely Support Your Eclipse While Replacing the Clutch

When replacing the clutch on an Eclipse, having the proper jack and jack stands is critical for safety and ease of access. Don’t rely on the scissor jack that came with your car – invest in a good quality floor jack and solid jack stands rated for the weight of the Eclipse.

Step 1: Chock the Wheels

Once the Eclipse is parked on level ground in your workspace, chock the rear wheels to prevent accidental rolling. Place the chocks both in front and behind each rear wheel for redundancy.

Step 2: Loosen Lug Nuts

Before jacking up the Eclipse, loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels. Breaking them loose ahead of time will make it much easier to remove the wheels later.

Step 3: Position the Floor Jack

Place the floor jack under the protruding flange on the front subframe, just behind the front wheels. Consult your owner’s manual for specific jack points to avoid damage.

Step 4: Raise Car and Support with Stands

Pump the floor jack to raise the front of the Eclipse high enough to fit jack stands under the subframe flanges. Position a sturdy jack stand under each flange and lower the floor jack until the weight is held by the stands.

Step 5: Remove Wheels

With the front suspension supported securely, finish removing the lug nuts and take off both front wheels. This improves access for the clutch job.

Step 6: Support Transmission

Position the floor jack under the transmission toward the back near the differential. Pump the jack to apply light pressure and support the transmission’s weight.

Step 7: Remove Transmission Mount Bolt

Locate and remove the single bolt securing the transmission mount to the subframe. This allows the transmission to pivot freely when removing it.

Step 8: Disconnect Driveshaft

Slide the driveshaft bolts out from the differential side, then disconnect the driveshaft from the transmission output shaft. Tie it up and out of the way.

Step 9: Remove Transmission

With all mounting bolts and connections removed, carefully work the transmission away from the engine while lowering it with the floor jack. Watch for any hangs ups or snags.

Step 10: Remove Clutch

With the transmission supported safely on the floor jack, you can now access and remove the pressure plate, clutch disk, throw out bearing, and flywheel. Follow your shop manual for detailed steps.

There you have it – with the proper jack, jack stands, and following these 10 steps, you can safely support your 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse while replacing the clutch. Always take your time and be cautious when working under a lifted vehicle. Investing in quality support equipment is cheaper than hospital bills! Let me know if you have any other questions about tackling this clutch job on your Eclipse.

Replacing the worn clutch and flywheel on a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse requires meticulous work, but breaking it down into individual steps makes the process manageable. Here is a step-by-step walkthrough for removing the old clutch and flywheel to get your Eclipse back on the road.

Step-by-Step Removal of the Old Clutch and Flywheel

With the transmission lowered and supported safely on a jack, you’re ready to tackle removing the clutch components. Take your time and follow these steps.

Step 1 – Remove Pressure Plate

The pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel. Remove the bolts using a socket wrench. Keep track of bolt locations as some may be different lengths. Lift the pressure plate off and set it aside for inspection later.

Step 2 – Disconnect Clutch Release Bearing

The clutch release bearing pushes the pressure plate to disengage the clutch. Disconnect it from the release fork to free up the flywheel. Caution – the bearing may be preloaded with spring pressure.

Step 3 – Remove Flywheel Bolts

Use an impact wrench with the proper size socket to break the flywheel bolts loose. Access may be tight, so use extensions if needed. Fully remove the bolts once broken free.

Step 4 – Extract Flywheel

Check for any additional attachments such as an engine speed sensor wire. If clear, use pry bars evenly around the perimeter to work the flywheel off the crankshaft. Watch for sharp edges during removal.

Step 5 – Remove Clutch Disk

The clutch disk centers itself on the flywheel. Lift it straight off the input shaft once the flywheel is out of the way. Inspect for excessive wear or cracks.

Step 6 – Clean Components

Use a wire brush and shop towels to clean the flywheel friction surface, input shaft spline, and pressure plate of any grime before installing the new clutch.

Step 7 – Inspect Flywheel and Pressure Plate

Check the flywheel and pressure plate mating surfaces for hot spots, scores, or warping. Either can cause clutch chatter if not smoothed out or replaced.

With the old clutch removed and components cleaned, you can move on to installing the new clutch kit. Refer to the Eclipse service manual for specifications on bolts, torque values, and alignment tools needed. Let me know if any part of the clutch removal process is unclear! I’m happy to provide more details on removing the old clutch from your 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse.

Once the worn out clutch components are removed from your 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse, it’s time to bolt in the new clutch kit. Proper installation ensures good engagement and long service life. Here are the key steps for installing the new clutch disk and pressure plate.

Installing the New Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate

The clutch disk and pressure plate work together to smoothly engage and disengage the flywheel from the transmission. Getting them aligned and seated correctly is critical.

Step 1 – Inspect Flywheel

Before installing the new clutch, double check the flywheel friction surface for hot spots or uneven wear. Use a straightedge to verify flywheel face runout is within spec.

Step 2 – Mount New Clutch Disk

Slide the new clutch disk splines onto the input shaft fully. Center the disk hub on the flywheel. Install the clutch disk pilot tool to hold alignment.

Step 3 – Install Pressure Plate

Bolt the new pressure plate onto the flywheel using all new hardware per factory torque specs. Follow the sequence in the manual to draw it down evenly.

Step 4 – Connect Release Bearing

Attach the clutch release bearing sleeve onto the release fork. Confirm it moves freely before continuing.

Step 5 – Reinstall Flywheel

Slide the flywheel over the correctly aligned clutch disk using an alignment tool. Hand thread flywheel bolts first before tightening sequentially with an impact wrench.

Step 6 – Inspect Alignment

Remove the clutch disk alignment tool. Spin the flywheel by hand to check for binding which indicates a misaligned clutch plate. Realign if needed.

Step 7 – Reconnect Transmission

With the new clutch installed properly, carefully raise the transmission and connect the mount and driveshaft. Refer to your Eclipse service manual for the procedure.

Be patient during new clutch installation and take the time to periodically inspect alignment. A few extra minutes can prevent premature wear. Consult the factory service manual for the 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse if any installation steps are unclear. Let me know if you need any other tips for installing the new clutch kit in your Eclipse!

Replacing the Release Bearing, Pilot Bearing and Fork on a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse

So the clutch in your 2000 Eclipse is starting to slip or making weird noises, huh? We’ve all been there. Nothing more annoying than a clutch that just won’t engage right. But don’t sweat it – replacing those worn out parts is totally doable with some mechanical know-how and the right tools. In this guide, we’ll walk through the step-by-step process to swap out the release bearing, pilot bearing, and fork on your 2G Eclipse. Stick with us, and you’ll be rowing through the gears in no time.

Step 1 – Prepare the Workspace

Since you’ll be working under the car for this job, you’ll want to get it up on jack stands at a comfortable working height. Be sure to use jack stands designed for the weight of the vehicle, and chock the rear tires for safety. You’ll also need a floor jack to initially lift the car. Clear the area around the car of any tripping hazards. Gather any tools you’ll need and have them nearby – it’s annoying to be under the car only to find you’re missing a 10mm wrench. An organized workspace makes the job go faster.

Step 2 – Remove the Transmission

Before you can access the clutch parts, the transmission needs to come out. So bust out your wrenches and sockets and disconnect the shifter cables, slave cylinder line, electrical connectors, driveshaft, crossmember, and bell housing bolts. You’ll need a transmission jack or other method of support when unbolting the transmission from the engine. Take care when separating the units, and watch for any hanging wires or hoses. With the transmission lowered safely to the ground, you can now see the release fork, bearing, and pilot bearing areas more easily.

Step 3 – Remove the Release Bearing and Fork

On the transmission input shaft you’ll see the release fork and bearing. Remove the clip holding the fork to the pivot ball, and pull the fork off. Then slide the bearing off the input shaft. Inspect the fork closely for any worn areas or cracks – if damaged, a new one should be installed. Set both parts aside for now.

Step 4 – Knock Out the Pilot Bearing

The pilot bearing allows smooth rotation of the transmission input shaft inside the engine’s crankshaft. To remove it, take a bearing puller tool and attach it to the bearing’s inner race. Tighten the puller bolts in sequence to evenly pull on the bearing until it pops out of the crankshaft bore. If you don’t have a puller, a hammer and drift punch can work too. Just be careful not to damage the crank surface.

Step 5 – Install the New Pilot Bearing

Lube up the new bearing’s outer surface with motor oil and gently tap it into place with a socket against the bearing’s inner race. Make sure it fully seats flush in the bore. Now would also be a good time to inspect the rear main seal behind the pilot bearing for any leakage.

Step 6 – Install the New Release Bearing

Slide the new release bearing over the transmission’s input shaft until it seats against the retainer. A thin coat of grease helps it slide on easier. Then hook up the release fork back to its pivot ball and secure with the clip. Check that the fork moves smoothly.

Step 7 – Bolt the Transmission Back Up

With the new components installed, you can remount the transmission to the engine. Make sure the input shaft splines align with the clutch disk as you mesh the units together. Reinstall all the bolts, electrical connectors, shifter linkages, driveshaft, and crossmember. Don’t forget to refill the transmission once back in the car if doing a full flush.

Step 8 – Adjust the Clutch Pedal

Before driving the car, you’ll want to double check the clutch pedal free play. Too much or too little play will prevent proper clutch engagement. Refer to a factory service manual for the proper spec – usually around 1/2″ of play at the pedal. Adjust as needed until pedal feels normal.

Step 9 – Test Drive Time

That’s it – time to go cruise around the block and make sure all is operating smoothly. The clutch should engage seamlessly through its full range with no chatter or slippage. If any issues pop up, dive back in and diagnose. But when it’s dialed, enjoy the smooth shifting!

Step 10 – Celebrate!

Pat yourself on the back – you just knocked out a legit transmission R&R and full clutch overhaul. Major props. Pour yourself a cold one and reflect on a job well done. Your Eclipse will be thanking you every time you go for a spirited drive. Nice work!

There you have it – a complete clutch replacement on a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse from start to finish. While not the simplest task, armed with this guide and the right mechanical ability, it can certainly be tackled at home. Just be sure to work safe, document everything, and reach out to experts if you hit any snags. In no time you’ll be rowing gears once again, keeping that fun 2G on the road. Clutch work doesn’t have to spell dealer prices and mechanic headaches. Take care of it yourself, and enjoy the ride!

Bleeding the Hydraulic System on a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse Clutch

Over time, air bubbles can enter the hydraulic lines on your Eclipse’s clutch system, causing the clutch pedal to feel spongy or lack proper engagement. To restore smooth pedal feel and clutch function, the system needs to be bled to remove any trapped air. While not the most fun job, bleeding the hydraulics is pretty straightforward with some basic knowledge. In this DIY guide, we’ll walk through the complete process to get your 2000 Eclipse’s clutch hydraulics flowing properly. No more vague engagement points or poor pedal feel – just crisp response and easy shifting after a proper bleed job.

Step 1: Prep the Workspace

Since you’ll need access to components under the hood and inside the cabin, be sure to park on level ground. Pop the hood and clear any items blocking the master cylinder reservoir. Inside, pull back the driver’s side floor mats to access the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. Have some shop rags handy to catch spilled fluid. Also gather a clear hose, a fitting to thread the hose to the bleeder, and a wrench for the bleeder screw.

Step 2: Check Fluid Level and Condition

Check the level and condition of the brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. It should be full and clean – if discolored or low, a full flush would be recommended. For just bleeding air, top it off with fresh, clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid before starting.

Step 3: Crack the Bleeder Screw

Under the driver’s side footwell, locate the slave cylinder bleeder screw. Attach the clear hose with the proper fitting and snug it on the bleeder. Have your helper pump the clutch pedal a few times to build pressure. With pressure built up, crack open the bleeder screw and let a small amount of fluid flow into the hose, then quickly close it.

Step 4: Slowly Pump the Pedal

Have your helper slowly depress the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there. While held down, open the bleeder to release pressure. When the pedal reaches the floor, close the bleeder again. Have them slowly allow the pedal to retract fully. Repeat this process several times until no air bubbles are visible flowing through the clear hose.

Step 5: Double Check Fluid and Pedal

Top off the fluid reservoir to the proper level if needed. Wipe up any spilled fluid and reinstall floor mats. Carefully test the clutch pedal feel. It should have a firm, consistent feel through its range with no sponginess. If any air remains trapped, repeat the process until the pedal feels proper.

Step 6: Flush the System (Optional)

If the removed fluid was very dirty, consider doing a complete hydraulic system flush. This involves draining all old fluid, refilling with fresh fluid, and repeating the bleeding process until the drained fluid runs clean. This will ensure any accumulated contaminants are fully removed.

Step 7: Test Drive the Eclipse

Take the Eclipse for a quick spin to test normal clutch function. Shift through all the gears, getting on and off the pedal, and check for smooth engagement without slippage. Also verify the new firm pedal feel remains consistent.

Step 8: Check for Leaks

When back from the test drive, pop the hood and make sure no fluid leaks have developed at the master or slave cylinders. Also check under the driver’s footwell for any drips. Small fluid seepage may happen as seals rehydrate with new fluid, but major leaks indicate an issue.

Step 9: Adjust if Needed

If the pedal still has a spongy or vague feel after bleeding, there may be additional air trapped in the system. Repeat the bleeding process to remove it. Refer to factory specs for proper clutch pedal free play range if engagement feels off.

Step 10: Clean Up

Properly dispose of old brake fluid if a full flush was done. Any spilled fluid should be cleaned from components and painted surfaces, as it can be corrosive. Reinstall any interior trim panels that were removed.

Bleeding the hydraulics is vital for that high performance clutch feel we love. Take the time to do it properly, and your Eclipse’s clutch will once again deliver silky smooth shifts. With crisp pedal response and linear clutch engagement restored, you can continue enjoying the thrill of well-executed downshifts and upshifts. Maintaining your hydraulic system keeps the driving experience fun and trouble-free mile after mile.

Reinstalling Transmission and Connecting Components on a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse Clutch

You’ve got that rebuilt transmission prepped and ready to go back in your Eclipse. All that’s left is bolting it back up and hooking everything back together. Don’t rush this critical step – taking your time ensures proper alignment and secure connections. Follow along as we tackle rejoining the transmission and engine, reconnecting all linkages and components, and finishing the job right.

Step 1: Prep the Transmission

Before mating the trans back to the engine, double check a few things. Ensure the new clutch disk is aligned properly and fully seated. Verify all seals, gaskets, and mounting hardware are intact. Turn the output shaft to confirm smooth rotation. Lube the input shaft pilot bearing. Attach any electrical connectors within reach. Doing this prep work first makes the install go smoother.

Step 2: Support the Transmission

Use a transmission jack, jack stands, or an extra set of hands to support the weight of the transmission. You’ll need to be able to freely move it around to align with the clutch disk and engine. Be safe – don’t try letting it hang unsupported during this process. Have your alignment tools handy.

Step 3: Mate the Transmission to the Engine

Slowly slide the input shaft into the clutch disk as you mesh the transmission case against the engine block. Take care that the splines fully engage the disk. Rock the transmission slightly forward and back to settle it into position. If resistance is felt, don’t force it – realign and try again. Once seated, install a few bell housing bolts to hold it in place.

Step 4: Inspect the Alignment

Before fully tightening down the bell housing, use an alignment tool to check that the input shaft is concentric with the crankshaft. On rear-wheel drive cars, also verify proper driveshaft alignment. Minor tweaks to positioning can be made if needed. When correctly aligned, torque the bell housing bolts to factory spec.

Step 5: Reconnect Shifter Linkage

With the transmission secured to the engine, reconnect the gear shifter linkages. Line up the shift lever balls and properly seat each joint. Secure with new cotter pins or safety wire if applicable. Check full shifter movement through all gears before driving.

Step 6: Reconnect Cooler Lines

For vehicles with transmission coolers, carefully reconnect the inlet and outlet cooler hoses. Be sure to use new seals or O-rings, and check for any cracks or damage in the lines. Proper cooler operation prevents dangerous overheating.

Step 7: Reinstall Crossmember

Supporting the underside of the transmission is the crossmember mount. Line this back up to the body holes and bolt it securely in place. Use a jack to raise the transmission and take the load off the mount during installation if needed.

Step 8: Reconnect Electrical Connectors

Plug all electrical connectors back in – transmission position sensors, speed sensors, lockup connectors, etc. Double check you have full battery voltage at the proper pins. Proper electrical function is critical for the transmission controls and diagnostics.

Step 9: Refill Transmission Fluid

Add the specified type and amount of new transmission fluid down the dipstick tube. Refer to factory service specs for the proper procedure. This step provides vital lubrication of internal components.

Step 10: Road Test the Vehicle

Perform a thorough road test, shifting through all the gears. Verify smooth engagement and proper drivability. Have a helper watch underneath for any leaks at the reinstalled connections. If any issues are found, diagnose and correct before extended driving.

Patience and care during reinstallation ensures your Eclipse’s transmission and driveline operate properly for the long haul. Taking time to correctly realign components, torque bolts, and reconnect linkages avoids sloppy shifting or early failure down the road. Handle that rebuilt trans with care – it deserves a precise and leak-free new home!

Safety Checks and Road Testing After Clutch Replacement on a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse

The new clutch parts are installed and you’re ready to hit the road. But before fully sending it, there are some important safety checks and testing procedures to perform first. Rushing into spirited driving without verifying proper operation can lead to failures or even accidents. Let’s go over the correct break-in and testing process to ensure your shiny new clutch is ready for action.

Step 1: Check Master Cylinder Fluid

Before starting the engine, pop the hood and check the level of fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top it off if low after all the hydraulic work performed. Brake fluid level should be between the min and max lines on the reservoir.

Step 2: Check for Fluid Leaks

With the engine off, fully depress and release the clutch pedal a few times. Then get under the car and inspect the master and slave cylinders, lines, and bleed screw area for any sign of fluid leakage. Small seeps may happen as new seals seat in. If large drips are observed, determine the source and correct it.

Step 3: Start Vehicle and Check Lights

Fire up the Eclipse and make sure no warning lights related to the clutch or transmission come on. Specifically check for a clutch pedal position sensor error if your car has one. Any pertinent warning lights should be investigated and addressed before driving.

Step 4: Test Clutch Engagement at Idle

With your foot firmly on the brake, put the car in first gear and slowly release the clutch pedal. Do you feel the precise engagement point where the car wants to move against the brakes? Does it stall if you fully release the pedal? Repeat this in reverse as well. Adjust clutch pedal free play if engagement feels off.

Step 5: Test Drive in a Safe Area

Take the Eclipse out for a short drive in a quiet parking lot or industrial area without traffic. Go through all the gears, focusing on smooth clutch release and shifter engagement. Accelerate gently – don’t power shift or overload the new components.

Step 6: Monitor Temperatures

Keep an eye on coolant and transmission temperature during the test drive, as well as after. Verify nothing is overheating, which could indicate an issue with flywheel runout or hydraulic release. Ride the clutch as little as possible while testing.

Step 7: Come to a Stop and Check Again

After the short test drive, come to a complete stop and get out to perform another leak check. Look under the car and in the engine bay for any new drips from the transmission, clutch hydraulics, or coolant system.

Step 8: Test Drive Longer in Normal Driving

If everything checks out, take the Eclipse for a longer test drive in normal driving conditions. Go through stop-and-go traffic and highway cruising. Evaluate if the clutch feels normal during all conditions.

Step 9: Check Fitment One Last Time

When back from the final test drive, perform one more visual inspection of all clutch hydraulic connections and hardware you accessed during the job. Verify all clamps and fittings are tight with no new leaks evident.

Step 10: Send It!

At this point, all systems should be properly bedded in and performing normally. Now you can finally enjoy driving your Eclipse hard, with the confidence of a smooth shifting, fully functional clutch. Stay on top of routine maintenance and your new components should provide miles and miles of grin-inducing performance.

Like everything in life, it’s critical not to rush the last steps when finishing an important job. Taking the time to properly test and verify correct clutch operation ensures you don’t overlook any lingering issues. Don’t cut corners – treat that new clutch right and it will reward you with reliable fun for a long time to come.